Posts tagged ‘food’

Hungry in Taipei?

Before we left for Taipei for an eight day visit, we received lots of advice about places to eat. Night markets, Japanese food, yam foods of all kinds from yam balls to ice cream. We knew that a breakfast staple is soya bean milk and Eu Tiow (Eu Char Koay) so that was the first thing we asked about when we checked in to our hotel. I was very pleased to hear that there was a good place just down the road and the offerings certainly lived up to expectations. The shop was open every day and after checking out the other nearby morning food offerings on day three, it was determined that we would return to the ‘Four Seas Soya Bean Milk King’ for breakfast for the rest of our stay.

We tried pretty much all they had on offer, I specially enjoyed the slightly salty Tau Hu Huey with pieces of Eu Char Koay (Oil fried cakes?) on top. They also sell the ECK wrapped in either an omelette or a many times folded pastry which is cooked on a flat plate at the front of the shop. Their dumplings are also pretty good and after a couple of days we started to see familiar faces of other breakfasters, even sharing a table with one of them and having a good chat like old friends. 

The night markets are a must visit for dinner. We stopped by the local one, two blocks from our hotel most nights, enjoying such wonderful offerings as ‘small intestine in big intestine’ which is really a grilled meat sausage inside a ‘hot dog’ made of rice in a sausage wrapping. It was very tasty but we were glad we shared one because it was big and that gave us space for a bowl of tripe soup, just like grandma used to make, hot and peppery. We also managed to squeeze in a shared cup of avocado milk made with slices off one of the biggest avocados we’ve seen, bigger even that the ones we bought in Yangon. Other nights we enjoyed teppanyaki, crumbed chicken fillet, stewed pork knuckle and oyster omelette (similar to what we know, but served with a slightly sweet sauce). The cook was the best part, all in yellow, right to his glasses.
After discovering the avocado milk (really a smoothie) we tested many stalls for this as well as papaya milk, equally delicious and refreshing.

The Night Markets are amazing. The ones we’re familiar with in Malaysia are also great in their own way, but they are generally only in a particular location once a week and sell mostly fruit & veges, chicken, fish and other cooking needs as well as general household items and clothes. The ones we visited in and around Taipei were a daily affair, mostly food, with a wide variety, generally not more that two stalls selling the same type of food. We found them to be pretty clean and there were plenty of rubbish bins and here and there we saw sinks which I guess we could use if we needed to.

When we visited Tamsui night market after our visit to the hot springs at Xinbeitou, we found a stall making and selling sesame and peanut candies. Testing convinced us we needed a few bags so we went home with those. More testing was required and after quickly deciding we had sufficient space in our luggage, we decided to keep our eyes open for more. We found another branch in the Jilin Old Street making slightly different types so despite the rain pouring down, more packets went into our bags. Jiufen was a wonderful place to eat. If we ever go back to Taiwan, we’ve resolved to stay at least overnight and explore more fully. The old street was really fascinating and we filled our tummies with tea eggs, yam filled puffs and yam ice cream spring rolls. Delicious.

Of course, every good eating and walking about holiday needs fruit and we were happy to discover that persimmons, white nectarines and really good grapes were in season. We weren’t lacking for fruit to balance all the naughty foods at all. Dropping in at the Tourist Information Centre was useful too, because we found a great little walkabout map of Taipei old area, just south of the railway line near the Main Station. There are lots of eating places marked but we found some that weren’t, including a little hole in the wall shop selling the best peppery pork buns. Cooked on site in a round oven similar to a tandoor, they are light, crispy and delicious. Just perfect to fill the cracks as you walk. They even have a couple of stools so you can sit and ‘eat and go’ rather than ‘eat as you go’.

This is certainly not an exhaustive list of what we ate, but perhaps the stand-outs for us. Taipei is certainly a food paradise as far as we are concerned!


Hungry in Penang?

I wouldn’t, like some I know, travel hundreds of km just to eat a famous dish for lunch. However, I do like to eat what’s available and tasty, so I love going to Penang. We’ve been there many times over the years, with and without kids in tow and there are some places we just keep returning to. Gurney Drive in the evenings, for the great variety of Penang and generally Malaysian, specialties is a favourite. Batu Feringgi has a number of great hawker centres and we visit these if we stay at the beach or drive up. The assam laksa at Ayer Itam market is one of the best we’ve eaten. The best way to find it is catch the bus from Komtar and get off near the market. Walk round the corner and it’s right there. After you’ve had your fill, you’ll have energy for the walk up to Kek Lok Si temple just nearby.

On our most recent trip earlier in October, we had time to wander the streets admiring the restored buildings and identifying places to eat. The nyonya restaurant on Jln Pantai caught our collective eye and we headed back there for lunch. The Inche Kabin was excellent and the kangkong belacan would be hard to fault. Matched with stewed pork leg, which was not bad, though we were comparing it with what grandma used to make and a pretty decent tripe soup, out meal was eaten with rice. We washed everything down with nutmeg drink which is definitely worth going back for. The other stand out was the most excellent pastry shop Ming Xiang Tai, we found along Armenian Street, a branch of the main shop on Burma Rd. The pastries don’t come cheap, but they are excellent and we went back for boxes to take home before we left. The fillings are all fresh and they have savoury and sweet. Pineapple is always a favourite and this one was just right, not sickly sweet but my favourite was the coconut pastry. They have bite sizes and larger ones, all made on the premises, though I think the staff get a bit fed up with having their photos taken.

There are two chendol stalls along Lebuh Keng Kwee, just off Penang Road, south of the Police station. As you go in the one on the left is reputedly the one favoured by locals, though the tourists usually go to the one opposite. We went with the locals and weren’t disappointed. Our ‘green worms’ were just the right consistency and the santan and gula melaka were in just the right proportions. There are so many great places to eat in Penang and a short note like this can’t do justice to even a few of the many we’ve tried over the years. We’re happy to use any excuse for a quick trip to wander about, seeing how the city is changing so quickly now the buildings are being restored and finding new places to eat each time we go. Long may it continue.

Myanmar – Don’t eat the Ulam!

Where we got sick.When you travel there is one rule you NEVER break, the one that says don’t eat it if it’s raw. Two of us broke that rule this time. Luckily we weren’t too badly affected me less so, and the Chinese medicine helped a lot, but that little reminder never hurts. What did we eat, well, Myanmar food is similar to what we’re used to, but different as well, in the way it’s eaten. Our horse-cart driver KoKo recommended us to a very nice little restaurant just near the Ananda Pagoda in Bagan as we said we wanted local food. Apparently lunch is the best meal for this, a number of small dishes served with rice, soup and a bowl of raw veggies with dipping sauces. We all ate the cooked dishes and a few of the raw veggies  Baby eggplants, ladies fingers and so on. The one that probably did us in was the pegaga, a leafy little fellow that was really delicious dipped in the sauce. We didn’t stop to think what the fertiliser might be and how it was applied.
Other than that, food was not a major problem. We ate local food in the hotel the first evening after we arrived, sharing the three set menus offering different main meat dishes and most of our other meals in Yangon were taken at Sakura, at a little cafe close to the Kyauktada Police Station in Sule Pagoda Road. They serve local / Thai food as well as some basic western dishes, local beer, great fruit drinks (the papaya juice is excellent) and coffee.

Helping with the maths.

Helping with the maths.

Mandalay was a bit more difficult. Not having much time in the city, we wanted somewhere near our hotel so we walked to a local shop recommended by the staff at the reception. It was what we’d know as a coffee shop / kopitiam / mamak stall, selling freshly made food and drinks. The pancakes sounded good so we ordered three banana ones. When they arrived, they were very like Malaysian murtabak, except much less oily and a little crispy. They were delicious and we ended up having mutton filled ones at a roadside stall later for dinner. At the second stall, the little boy taking our money tried to give us back too much change and was quite bemused when we explained the maths to him.
Apart from our lunchtime ‘adventure’ in Bagan, we enjoyed dinner at the Sunset restaurant along the river a few minutes walk from our hotel, the Thiri Malar. We were glad we had our trusty little torch, because there are no street lights and there were signs in our rooms warning us to stay on the paths because otherwise we many encounter snakes, scorpions and nasty prickles. We certainly heeded that advice. Our breakfast, eggs, toast and fruit with fresh pressed juice and tea / coffee was enjoyed on the rooftop terrance, admiring the view. There are pagodas everywhere and it is a very pleasant way to wake up and enjoy breakfast in the cool of the morning, even if your tummy is not completely happy. Before we left we had lunch just round the corner at the San Carlo restaurant. Home made pumpkin ravioli, spaghetti and hone pancake filled the cracks nicely before we set off on the train back to Yangon. The long distance trains do have restaurant cars, but we didn’t try them out. We ordered food from the one on the Yangon Mandalay run, which was fine, noodles, but we didn’t feel like rocking and rolling our way through the carriages in between to actually go there ourselves.